Earlier this year I was in Berlin, and bought a bottle of the Ultimate Laphroaig 1998 at cask strength (reviewed here). This cask was bottled just a few months short of its 14th year. At the end of last year, Dutch bottler van Wees released sister cask 700354 at 46% and my friend Erik Olink sent me a sample of a bottle he cracked open, to compare with my cask strength bottle.
This cask was distilled on September 22nd, 1998 and was bottled November 5th, 2013.
I’ll give you the bottom line already, despite the fact that I don’t think you’ll find it shocking: Cask strength is cask strength, and Laphroaig in sherry butts works really well 🙂
The Ultimate Laphroaig 1998, 15 Years Old, Cask 700354 (46% ABV, NCF, NC)
Appearance: Amber, slow forming thin legs.
Nose: Wet peat, sweet sherry and fresh home baked bread. You’ll also find smoked fish, kippers and a deep maltiness. The sherry gets more pronounced over time in the glass with old bandages coming through with an increased sweetness.
Palate: Dry smoky sweetness on the tongue, with lots of ashes. Some smoky dry apricots (as if you found some dry apricots after a fire), or a smoky apricot fruit roll.
Linger: Tangy on the sides of the tongue, with the “weight” of the linger between the tongue and the inner cheeks. Smoke and sweetness linger on.
Conclusion
This is, as expected, an outstanding whisky.
It’s a Laphroaig through and through, and 46% is just enough to make it work. I would have liked to see this expression at cask strength, but it’s very enjoyable at this presentation as well.
That CS Van Wees is great – BUT, you must try the 1998 15yo signatory for TWE (someone posted on MM&F today).
Truly phenomenal!
I’d love to…
Do you have any?
Maybe I found one!
BTW, cask 700393 for TWE was bottles on – that’s right: 22/09/1998
Keep you finders crossed for Ben to send something – If he bought a few bottles as he suggested in his post maybe I’ll trade him a bottle of ANB…
That’s lovely….Fingers and toes crossed 🙂
Yes, that day produced a series of casks to kill for 🙂
Citing Jan Beek of Van Wees, it appears that casks filled on September 22, 1998 are special because the barley was floor malted at Laphroaig. From Whiskybase Shop:
“The barley used to make this whisky is extra special because it was produced at Laphroaig. Nowadays most barley is malted at Port Ellen Maltings.”
http://shop.whiskybase.com/58622/laphroaig-1998-vw
Thanks for the information, James.
Very interesting.